Is your Vintage Jewelry in Good Condition?

vitage ring for blog

I just thought I would offer you a quick visual check on or about your newly inherited priceless piece of family jewelry or your newly purchased Vintage piece and tell you the condition of it or what you really bought .  The natural wear and tear on jewelry makes it important to have the prongs checked to see if they are worn and make sure your stones are not in danger of falling out. The bridge, shoulder and or shank may also be worn thin. The Filigree ring above needed the bezel and shank repaired and the multi stone ring below was re-tipped. If you would like to bring in your new to you piece I can take a quick look and tell you the condition it is in. Hope to see you in the shop!

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> > > Creating with Us at Gold works and David Martin . Specializing in Wedding sets, Engagement rings, and Wedding bands . >

This is a new blog and it will be short. I will write about an adventure into creating.

Considering that you have found me at Gold Works USA, we will begin an interesting relationship to create something in gold or other precious metal for you to wear, perhaps for many years.
I consider it a privilege to have come this far with you so I need to get into your head to see just what is driving you to explore my world of creating.
Visiting my shop is different from most others because we specialize in engagement rings, wedding bands and wedding sets that are usually not available in average jewelry stores.
I get customers from everywhere.
Somehow Google and Facebook are enough information to entice someone to try us.
Some engagement rings are asymmetrical and cannot have the typical wedding band to match so I am called in to create something that fits.
I’ll use your ideas if you have something and can show it to me or explain it.
Let’s start there for now.
I have a gift of visualizing small to large sculptures.
I need your help to do that for you though, so come prepared.
If you do know what you want it will be an adventure for you and I to mess around with ideas.
Sometimes we will get a really neat breakthrough.
If we get to this point I will show you some really nice visuals you can take home in a little while .
First I will create a render for you based on all the preps we have just communicated to get to this point.
Now it starts to get exciting.
I often say your imagination is my horizon and that is really true!
To start this thought process to manifest into design, email me your thoughts, pictures, or link of some kind to focus us into the visual aspect of design.
The sooner we can get this the sooner I can show you what I can do for you.

GIA Terminology about Diamonds

A couple days ago I promised in Facebook that I would talk about Gemological Institute of America (GIA) terminology. I had a like on Facebook who asked for a price on a ring in my front window. The question came from a beautiful 3 stoned ring that had a diamond in the center and 2 Blue Topaz on either side. I believe her question was about a 3 stoned ring in the front window that had 3 blue topaz instead of a diamond in the center. The one in the window had a London blue topaz center stone and measured about 8×9 mm. It is called a cushion cut. It is neither oval nor round. The two side stones were brilliant Swiss blue topaz trillion shaped. Here is where the GIA terminology start meaning something.

Cushion cut is a term used to describe a cut of a stone and trillion is another term talking about the cut or the shape of a stone. These terms are pretty much geometric terms such as round, rectangular, triangular. To leap into diamond technology, it’s a matter of describing a technical terms that describes a stone. Shapes of stones can be geometric but in the stone worlds, lapidarist or stone cutters use slightly different geometric terms to apply to stones such as, coming from GIA would be round brilliant, ideal cut and then attaching that to geometric shapes coming up with cushion which is an oval rectangular shape with rounded corners not strictly rectangular with corners. Okay, now you get into other cuts. The emerald cut, radiant cuts, princess cuts, pear shapes, oval shapes, variations of the triangle, and rounds. If you’ve come this far with me, you basically know the feel of the GIA terminology and lapidary art of cutting stones. So much for shapes!

GIA came up with these terms to standardize a way for all jewelers to use with designers, jewelers, and customers like you so that you can tell me what shape, design you want and we can talk about it. I think it would be good if I let today’s blog go and tomorrow I will pick up another paragraph on color and why GIA terminology is so important to know about when you are shopping for stones, whether they are diamonds or other colored stones. If you have questions about this, please feel free to call me at 703-683-0333 or shoot me an email at

Platinum vs. White Gold

One of the most interesting conversations I have had is about Platinum vs. White Gold. Simply put, Platinum is an element and White Gold is an alloy. Once you establish that fact, the major difference is the result. An alloy is a mixture of metals. White Gold is a mixture of Yellow Gold and some other white metal. You start with 24Ct Yellow Gold and use enough alloy to result in 24Ct White Gold. 58.3% is 14Ct gold. So the difference is made up of Zinc,Nickel, or Palladium.

So much for White Gold, Platinum is an element. It is usually alloyed with Rhodium or some other metal to make it harder and to absorb some cost. Platinum does not have any yellow element in it. In simple language, it will never look yellow but always look white. However, it does not polish as bright as White Gold. For some reason, gold is brighter so it’s more desirable.

An easy way to distinguish these two metal is if you see yellow shine. White gold shows yellow shine when it has not been polished for a long time. An easy DIY is to use your t-shirt but since metal is hard, it is better to take it to a jeweler for polishing. Another solution to not show the yellow shine in White Gold is to plate it with platinum or rhodium. However, that is only a temporary solution.

Personally, I like the chameleon effect.I like the natural metal than plating and watch the color change. I think that’s cool! Platinum is harder, it’s specific density is greater so for a jeweler, it’s harder to work with it. However, it’s also more heavier and hence more desirable. With all these information, it is up to you to decide which one you prefer. Another choice is Palladium, which costs as much as Whit Gold but looks like Platinum. In the end, the choice is yours!

Sizing a Ring

I am noticing the common mistakes in Jewelry are not because information is not available but because most of the time the information is just not used . Take for instance in sizing a ring there is probable reason that stones at the top of a ring become loosened. It is not too hard to figure out that the stones are a fixed straight object captured in a movable object; the ring . If you bend a ring the stones stay stationary . Wrong they slide in what was a secure position a moment ago now they may be loose. What would you do about that ?


candice1 candice2 candice3 candice4NEW at Gold Works! Photographed by Steven Halperson and modeled by Candice Azoury. Descriptions: Multi-colored fresh water pearl necklace with diamond lanyard/adjustable clasp, rings with cognac and clear (VS quality) diamonds, 32-inch long chain necklace with fresh water pearls, gray baroque pearl ring, and 18KT pink gold cuff bracelet with white gold scrolls and cognac and clear (VS quality) diamonds.